tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16675712897387036032024-03-05T12:39:27.204+00:00Flames painterThis is my blog for the creation and painting of men, units and scenery for Flames of War (FOW) 15mm wargamming.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06138040831167559298noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667571289738703603.post-10557400992047410542013-09-15T13:52:00.000+01:002013-09-15T13:53:56.752+01:00Flames of War skirmish report<span class="userContent"><img alt="" class="spotlight" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1236279_10100275526167387_1447511706_n.jpg" style="height: 632px; width: 474px;" /> </span><br />
<span class="userContent">After both
sides occupying high ground over a ruined town, </span><br />
<span class="userContent"><img alt="" class="spotlight" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1240158_10100275526312097_1754428028_n.jpg" style="height: 632px; width: 843px;" /> </span><br />
<span class="userContent">German reinforcements
engaged American Paratroopers in fields. </span><br />
<span class="userContent"><img alt="" class="spotlight" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/541795_10100275526381957_807616609_n.jpg" style="height: 632px; width: 843px;" /></span><br />
<span class="userContent">The Germans inflicted light
casualties in hit and run raids but then failed to press h<span class="text_exposed_show">ome
the element of surprise or to use a nearby platoon gone to ground in a
wood to overwhelm the paratroopers. </span></span><br />
<span class="userContent"><span class="text_exposed_show"><img alt="" class="spotlight" height="299" src="https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1234065_10100275526451817_274933454_n.jpg" style="height: 632px; width: 843px;" width="400" /></span></span><br />
<span class="userContent"><span class="text_exposed_show">Then those Eagles accurately reduced
the German forces by 66%, pinning them down. Quickly the Eagles mopped
up the stragglers. The skirmish ended with the Screaming Eagles happier
than Das Reich.</span></span><br />
<span class="userContent"><span class="text_exposed_show"><img alt="" class="spotlight" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1240383_10100275526491737_1583631114_n.jpg" style="height: 632px; width: 843px;" /> </span></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06138040831167559298noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667571289738703603.post-67960823324780182802013-08-05T21:26:00.001+01:002013-08-06T09:53:49.257+01:00Getting entrenched - Building trenches for Flames of War FOW 15mm part 1On the back of an amazing trip to Normandy, to see the D-Day landings, I'm beginning to model a little of the Atlantic Wall myself. There are some great Flames of War scenarios so I hope my trenches get well used.<br />
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I'm hoping to make trenches, bunkers, artillery and AA batteries, but let's start with a simple set of six one foot (30cm) trenches.</div>
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I'm basing the trenches on 6mm MDF. After some chats on the ferry home with my gaming mate, it's clear that the trenches must be wide enough for a medium Flames of War base to sit with its longest side parallel to the length of the trench. </div>
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The trench begins with polystyrene strips being glued down with PVA. I used a marker to ensure there's enough room for a Flames of War base - allowing extra for the filler and the wood I'll use for the trench sides. </div>
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I then added the brown window filler to the edges of the board, covering the outer side and top of the polystyrene. Of course I sloped the attackers edge of the section, so hopefully it'll make it look good for skirmishes. On two of the sections I've added exit points, another two have ends that I hope are big enough for a medium base to face out - seems like a good place for an MG42.</div>
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On the picture above I've also added kebab skewers on the sloped side, they may end up with barbed wire on them.</div>
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Once that was mostly set I put more filler in the trench. Into that I put planks, otherwise known as coffee stirrers. I built up the outside walls with three, the floor has various sections. The filler makes for excellent mud everywhere. The only thing I currently don't like is the thickness of the 'planks'. You can cut them down, I did a couple, but I already have very impressive Stanley knife scars, so I'm</div>
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reluctant to do that too much.</div>
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Originally I added a number of vertical pieces of 'plank' that held the horizontal 'planks' in place (on the real sections we saw in Normandy). This looked great, but the width of the trench became too narrow for the medium base. Using a wider MDF base would allow for more room in the trench, but the whole thing would take up more room on your gaming board. In the end I removed all of them except at the ends of the sections. </div>
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I hope to sandbag the edges of the trenches - I'm going to get very bored making all then from green stuff! The main consideration there is ensuring the trench sides don't get too high and stop the soldiers (and their arms) seeing outside the trench.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06138040831167559298noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667571289738703603.post-4276991231818969712013-05-05T20:33:00.000+01:002013-05-06T19:07:43.790+01:00Hedge clumps, smoke markers etc Part 1 - (for Flames of War FOW 15mm)Over on the Flames of War forum there was a discussion about making explosion markers (http://www.flamesofwar.com/Default.aspx?tabid=126&aff=52&aft=554059&afv=topic). I haven't got there yet, but as that idea got me thinking about a load of little bits for my boards.<br />
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Therefore I've used that idea and made some hedge clumps and smoke markers. I might develop this idea some more, but for now here's what I did.<br />
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I purchased some 2mm thick, 20mm diameter MDF pieces. These are available on ebay for only a couple of pounds.<br />
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On each of them I added some brown window putty. As I was experimenting I tried a few different finishes with the putty, but the main style I wanted was a cratered finish. Seems like craters are likely when shells and artillery go off and also it makes it very easy to put something in the crater because the crater edges cradle it and hide the glue. <br />
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They dried and then I spray painted them with Plastikote brown. As these markers are very small I'm not going to paint them again to get a dry brushed effect. <br />
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I took two different packets of Javis clump foliage. It's hard and far less malleable that the Woodland Scenics, so it's great to have a use for it because I couldn't seem to use it to make the much larger explosion markers. I put a good splodge of PVA in the crater, added the clump and then waited for it to dry. Then today I added a second liberal coat of PVA, just over the top to seal the hedge down.<br />
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I think these will make great little pieces of randomly placed scenery on a board. Put a few of them close together and they might be able to break line of sight between infantry teams.<br />
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Then the other type of marker I made this time are smoke markers. Another good blob of PVA goes in the crater well, then a lump of pillow filling, rolled and shaped. Using the pillow filler isn't my idea, I saw someone using it on Youtube for smoke markers.<br />
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I hope these work out, I literally finished making these before dinner this evening. I'll try and get some photos of these on a terrain board or in use soon.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06138040831167559298noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667571289738703603.post-89379572966085555622013-04-29T09:57:00.006+01:002013-04-29T09:57:51.863+01:00Low hedges and stone walls - (for Flames of War FOW 15mm)Making your own low hedges or stone walls couldn't be easier. I got my inspiration for these from a game with my mater Coops. He'd been using the cork tile edging strips and some wooden beading to make some fences and hedges.<br />
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Here's my homage to him. I bought cork edging strips and wooden beading from Wickes, shaped like a capital D on it's side, but flat on the round of the D so the cork strips glue on properly. I'm not advertising them because I get a deal, but they are cheap and you get plenty, at least when it comes to low hedges and walls.<br />
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I cut the raw materials into foot long strips for the unbroken sections. Others I cut at 5" (12.5cm ish), in order to make entry or breakthrough points like you'd see in any fence or wall from a road into a field or other area.<br />
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I glued the wood and cork together, once dried I customised my hedges. I held a section length ways in my hand and took a craft knife to the top edge of the cork and scraped it along, breaking bits of cork off to create an uneven finish, just how hedges grow. You could do the same with walls, but I decided not to.<br />
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Once I was happy with that I undercoated the sections black. In the top left hand corner you can see the first one of the entry sections I ended up making.<br />
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In the picture below, which is all hedge, you can clearly see the effects of scraping the edge of the cork. Then it was time to paint. My friend Jason says I use too many colours. Well, we've got to keep Vallejo in tapas haven't we?<br />
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This picture shows hedges in the stages of being painted, from top to bottom. The black undercoat could easily be replaced with brown, but I think the hedges benefit from a dark shadowed centre.<br />
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I used Vallejo 979 german camo dark green, 874 russian green, 890 reflective green for my shaded greens.<br />
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For highlights I then applied 988 khaki, 983 flat earth and 818 red leather (aiming for a berry or red leaf effect).<br />
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In one or two places I used little bits of cork to create a crack through the hedge or wall line. <br />
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For the stone walls instead of the paint, once undercoated I used Rust-Oleum Textured Stone effect 400ml spray paint. There are some colour options here, it's up to you which one you use.<br />
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This is a picture from a small infantry skirmish, using a mixture of hedge and wall. Coop's US are about to come through the wall and kick my backside!<br />
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These last shots are simply some staged pictures once I'd finished flocking the edges.<br />
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I've also made some road to go underneath or next to (depending on how narrow you want the roads) the low hedges and walls.<br />
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The breakthrough points are relatively easy to make. Use the 45 degree cut cork and create the opening.<br />
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For these I used some filler to create tracks and the raised hump you always see between muddy tracks.<br />
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Then I added bushes and foliage that stuck up higher than the flock. Flock on. All done!<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06138040831167559298noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667571289738703603.post-72105666446625442042013-04-18T20:52:00.004+01:002013-04-19T09:22:44.964+01:00Terrain squares - Crossroads Part 1 (for Flames of War FOW 15mm)I had an idea a few weeks ago to make some larger pieces of terrain.<br />
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I wanted something that could go in the centre of a table or reversed and put on two edges, like a route in for resupply troops. I wanted it something that would create quite a few blindspots and also have enough room on it for an objective marker. <br />
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I picked up some 6mm MDF and cut into 6 squares, 30cm square with rounded corners. Someone asked me why I did rounded corners. I honestly can't say other than that's what teams are based on.<br />
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Once I'd thought it through I marked out the idea, pictured above. The path of the tracks is obvious and the rectangles and arrows are going to be small hills large enough for a tank or two to hide behind. </div>
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The next stage was messy - which is clearly why I chose to do it on the cream carpet in our lounge! I took some polystrene, rescued from the Grandparent's new washing machine deliverers. I cut it into chunks according to the rectangles and arrows I'd drawn on the boards. I then glued them up with PVA and left the boards to dry.<br />
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Once dried I covered them in the mouldable brown window putty I use on all my terrain. A large tube for 99p, can't go wrong - even when you use two or three tubes to cover two of these boards.</div>
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The majority of the board only had a fine skim of the window putty,
perhaps 2-3mm. I then textured it over the top of the polystyrene - the
same thing I do with making my Bocage (a blog or two for another day).
Then with some coffee stirrers (tracks), a knackered fork (furrows), a
deliberately broken kebab skewer (for little indents and marks) and
anything else I like to use to make the tracks and other textures.<br />
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I had originally thought I could create the textures with the one of
my tanks, press it and move along. Nope! All that did was transfer loads
of brown goo on to the treads. It might work when nearly dry, but I
went another way.<br />
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Time to let it dry and see what it looks like before painting!<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06138040831167559298noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667571289738703603.post-23702657373821766492013-04-18T16:20:00.000+01:002013-04-19T09:22:31.338+01:00Autumn Trees Part 2 (for Flames of War FOW 15mm)Last time I showed the start of my trees. I said this time I'd talk about finishing them off.<br />
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The first part of that involves adding water to those basis with ponds. I used the filler to create the edge of the base, added rocks and bits of coffee stirrers for a small pontoon. <br />
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I used Woodlands Scenics Magic water to create the water. I'm aware that you can buy another product called Water effects, both Woodland Scenics and Vallejo sell them. This allows you to create extra effects on the surface of the water. <br />
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I've ordered some of that to see how it works. It is also possible to add texture to Magic water, a toothpick works fine if you can be around while its drying. It's possible to mess it up at various stages in the drying process in order to create effects.. <br />
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I think on reflection I made a mistake with the base under the water. I wasn't sure what the final finish would be so I tried tan and blue, it looks decidely iffy. Next time I'll do better!<br />
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Right, back to painting and finishing these pieces of scenery. If I'm leaving alot of earth on show I do multiple colours dry brushed on. If I'm using a lot of flock then I opt for a dark brown and get the flock everywhere. <br />
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This first base with two trees on it, has a felled trunk along the front, plus a few rocks pressed into the filler, they have been painted around. <br />
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I've created a worn out fence line along the edge of this base. The rest of the base is heavily flocked.<br />
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This pair of trees was raised up a little on the base and more putty added to create a natural channel. In Flames of War infantry can pass between man wide gaps in buildings, so I thought this was quite a nice, if superficial scenery effect. Actually as I type this up I can see that the earth around the tree needs some dry brushing to finish it off well. I'd better get on that too!<br />
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The same base from the side.<br />
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I've painted up the stones a little on this base, I like the effect, it's almost snow like. Also a couple of bits of kebab skewer make great stumps.<br />
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My flocking process is very simplified. I mixed up lots in advance of painting my Germans, and it's getting used everywhere. There is standard flock in there, some grit, small random particles. Lately some Norwegian moss has crept in there. What I feel I should have done is kept the recipe!<br />
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Soon I'll run out, but I hope all my Germans will be done then. The Russians will have to have their own blend. I've simply taken a few pictures to finish off. I add my flock in the following way. 1) Brush plenty of PVA on, a good coating, but you don't want it running off, just running in.<br />
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2) If you're flocking a bunch of models then brush on all the PVA.<br />
3) After it's well coated, I leave it for 5 min, then I start adding the flock.<br />
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4) I sprinkle it on, rubbing it between my forefingers and thumb as I go - just like breaking up a stock cube. <br />
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5) Once it's well coated I turn the model over and tap, tap, tap. Loose flock falls off and lots that's sticking starts to stand up. <br />
6) I repeat the adding process until I'm happy with the amount on there.<br />
7) Let dry and enjoy when you play.<br />
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If you read the last article on my blog you'll know it's taken me two months to add this part 2. That isn't because I'm slow at making trees, it's because I've been lazy in adding articles because I've been making up some really lovely pieces of scenery, some 30cm (1ft) squares. More on them soon!<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06138040831167559298noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667571289738703603.post-51697211745333930862013-02-17T09:48:00.000+00:002013-04-19T09:22:53.359+01:00Autumn trees Part 1 (for Flames of War FOW 15mm)As I'm working towards an autumn themed battlefield I asked for some model trees for Christmas. My lovely wife bought me a large bag. Shortly afterward I took some large Flames of War sized bases, plus some generic round bases from a show, and I started working out some ideas in my head.<br />
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The idea was to create:<br />
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1) Stand alone trees<br />
2) Trees that would work together in rows<br />
3) A pond or two <br />
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For the first part of my basing I'd relied on polyfiller, the cheap homebrand ones in places like B&Q. Since then I'd had a moment where brown window sealant caught my eye.<br />
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I bought a long tube of it from the 99p store, whacked it in my caulking gun and made a sampler to see if it did what I wanted.<br />
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I personally like everything about it as a basing material. It has a number of advantages over polyfiller:<br />
- it weighs less,<br />
- it's much more malleable,<br />
- it looks more durable,<br />
- it won't crack (I think)<br />
- it takes paint, stones or other adds ons really well<br />
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Simply - take a base, add a triggerfull of the brown caulk.<br />
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Create the shapes you want:<br />
- a ring of it for a pond (adding stones around the edge, or even a mini pier as you can see in the bottom left corner of the picture below<br />
- a layer deep enough to submerge the roots of your trees<br />
- a bank on one side of a base, or a gully<br />
- a fence line with either small pieces of kebab skewer or coffee stirrer sticks<br />
- an abandoned MG nest, sandbags as an OP for a sniper team<br />
- kebab skewers for old tree stumps<br />
- an equipment store<br />
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The limits are really what you can imagine and create.<br />
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Putting two of the type of trees I had on to a single large base was a squeeze. My solution was to put them in the corners. With a tree in each corner of a base you can make a row of bases to create a thick tree line which I you can designate as concealment. The only thing you've got to do is if you're using top left and bottom right, then stick to it. Otherwise if you put one in the bottom left and top right then they won't sit flush with each other. I did a set of each in the end, plus the ponds.<br />
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The caulk is dry within 12 hours. I guess you can add stones etc at any point during those hours.<br />
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Regarding tank tracks - I found with polyfiller and this caulk, that tank tracks can be added, but you may end up with some of the filler/caulk on your tracks if you indent them too early. I don't have spare sets of tracks, and I don't want gunk left on my tanks, so I tried something else. A thin coffee stirrer (or a thick one cut or sanded down) and some patience and you can create sets of tightly packed parallel lines which represent tank tracks.<br />
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Next time painting them<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06138040831167559298noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667571289738703603.post-51049900256179359952013-02-15T09:45:00.001+00:002013-04-19T09:23:11.084+01:00 Painting SS-Scout Tank-hunter platoon Schwimmwagen GE819 Part 3 (Flames of War FOW 15mm)I've looked at painting the Schwimmwagen vehicles up in the last two posts. Had a couple of really useful tips via the Flames of War forum (painting the wheel hubs yellow and toning down the metallic tools by mixing a silver colour with dark grey), and I need to see if I can use them, either now as a post pain fix, or in the future.<br />
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What I've put in the pictures here is the basing of the men. <br />
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My biggest struggle in coming to Flames of War is arranging men on bases. Well maybe that and those moments where two fiddly parts on a vehicle wont superglue together, but my fingers will (thank goodness for green stuff!)<br />
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I've found members of the Flames of War forum incredibly useful in pointing me in the right direction. With small platoons it is relatively simple. You can find the item in the shop and see how the guys at Battlefront display the men. You can also see squad pictures in the game books and diagrams that give you the right understanding of the number of men a squad has in it, and whether those men are on one base, or like my SS infantry are across two bases (one with four men on it and one with five). <br />
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Some kebab skewers make good tree stumps, plus kitty litter for boulders and spare bits from a German stowage blister. Green stuff also means you can make extra barrels, packs and storage crates. I've also done a lot of customisation work on my Nebelwerfer infantry to make them into what I see as SS units instead of Heer.<br />
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Anyway, off topic. In these pictures I've based my men on a generic polyfilla. I found the cheaper ones better because they are more coarse and give a rougher finish.<br />
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I have to admit to making a mistake with the basing of these. For all my SS infantry I score the bases with a craft knife in a diamond pattern. I attached the men, then very carefully with cut down coffee stirrers (your friend) applied the filler. This time I got carried away with more detailed bases and adding the detritus of war, and forgot that putting the men on was a problem. <br />
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I had an idea to fix it, but didn't use it. I thought you could use a toothpick and dig out the base disc, so the men would go into a hole in the filler. I think it's simpler to do it right the first time! Each man had a little superglue and greenstuff to hold them down in the end.<br />
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Despite the mistake I reckon the end product with the men is good enough. I added more filler and textured it. Then when it dried I painted up the bases with eight layers of acrylic. I'll do an article on that, and why I like it, at some point.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK_pJlpJKeaQ1YXiOQxyc_PaV36IoJiIlJsUSkJV1XfOGUhw_z9gbpwYh_F0GZLjwCrxpjRmKnoNgEolERs61HhErL01OkPp9nM_SCOCLxe4VWVMV2ebvr60Uzt6IWurMr5yicJ1h8FToN/s1600/2012+Autumn+Winter+168.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK_pJlpJKeaQ1YXiOQxyc_PaV36IoJiIlJsUSkJV1XfOGUhw_z9gbpwYh_F0GZLjwCrxpjRmKnoNgEolERs61HhErL01OkPp9nM_SCOCLxe4VWVMV2ebvr60Uzt6IWurMr5yicJ1h8FToN/s640/2012+Autumn+Winter+168.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
In this final picture you'll see I haven't flocked. I'm in two minds over that and may still flock small areas on the squads. If you're wondering what the two larger round bases are at the top, I had a go at objective markers, with lots of tank treads in them. They are both meant to represent a rough store area where Germans may have dumped items. I love the fact we can use our imagination for the battlefields. The barrels of my Nebelwerfers are sneaking in the bottom of the picture, but that's for another time too!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhew_QqfLElvayIP9GD7gPJHQhkcelu_M-dqtLtQG8f5DOcEsnYPpNVwzZenjazg6JZMqMWRBC8ecP2rgLzRJ3OntdcPS7idseKLxspYMbUrbM8ZuR3S_UPyWskXcBurpbA9uG6l06nhTRK/s1600/P1010638.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhew_QqfLElvayIP9GD7gPJHQhkcelu_M-dqtLtQG8f5DOcEsnYPpNVwzZenjazg6JZMqMWRBC8ecP2rgLzRJ3OntdcPS7idseKLxspYMbUrbM8ZuR3S_UPyWskXcBurpbA9uG6l06nhTRK/s640/P1010638.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06138040831167559298noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667571289738703603.post-10272494034861725512013-02-14T10:44:00.000+00:002013-04-19T09:23:20.753+01:00Painting SS-Scout Tank-hunter platoon Schwimmwagen GE819 Part 2 (Flames of War FOW 15mm)Following on from the last post, here are some closeup shots of three of the Schwimmwagen. At this distance, which is about 4cm away, the detail is overly close, which I think takes away a little from what they look like on the battlefield.<br />
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Anyway some painting information - I've base coated the green stuff additions in Middlestone, same as the body, but then tried to do some contrast with Vallejo Khaki 988.<br />
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I haven't flocked these bases yet, but as I'm using an autumn uniform scheme for my SS, I've got a suitable mix of autumn flock to put on (eventually)<br />
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The helmets are painted according to the colour scheme you're using for your uniforms - I'm using Oak leaf autumn so each helmet gets the three colours for that camo scheme - info I don't have to hand but it's definitely in the Cobra source book and I'm sure on the flames of war website.<br />
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Lots of detailed camo work can be done with 5/0 or 10/0 brushes. I've
also seen an article in one of the newer FOW books about triangular
shaped spots on late war Panthers - I've tried something else which I'll
write about when I put up my Panther painting articles.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhICjsgA7sF4bdwX5-0wDol4OmnixDuTtsohuau794SgB-EAwTQDYLF-5msIRQqKSxdQpgBw2mJzuv-OumNCcGrI3sN5FbLmXmvyLPxPzmSot0kSE_XTFFQGliONk9m_VKSOsNffh5Dw3jh/s1600/2012+Autumn+Winter+118.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhICjsgA7sF4bdwX5-0wDol4OmnixDuTtsohuau794SgB-EAwTQDYLF-5msIRQqKSxdQpgBw2mJzuv-OumNCcGrI3sN5FbLmXmvyLPxPzmSot0kSE_XTFFQGliONk9m_VKSOsNffh5Dw3jh/s640/2012+Autumn+Winter+118.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
I put the men into the vehicles before varnishing them. Each vehicle
seems designed for 3 men, including at least one with a panzerfaust. The
pictures below are prevarnished, but the men have been dipped in
quicktone, hence their slightly shiny finish. Once finished off with two coats of matt varnish they lose the shiny edge.<br />
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The other thing I did on these vehicles was decals. There clearly were some hard and fast rules in the real world. I doubt my solution is anyway authentic, but I thought it out and I like it. Each vehicle in this platoon has a German star on the bonnet and I've put a SS 2nd Das Reich logo on the driver's door.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsXPSqUInJiXSqaWHpp2Ug0YZy_AqYrwQ-kBqHwflocImCYLzsyIdWvvslO8TWmD1CHoihLiCspZZLgGpk1xuzyKlOrYJWWMD2GPumHP1-XVSRSkUzScm6sdQBSe2tCPb_37Ydx_hnaJTF/s1600/2012+Autumn+Winter+117.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsXPSqUInJiXSqaWHpp2Ug0YZy_AqYrwQ-kBqHwflocImCYLzsyIdWvvslO8TWmD1CHoihLiCspZZLgGpk1xuzyKlOrYJWWMD2GPumHP1-XVSRSkUzScm6sdQBSe2tCPb_37Ydx_hnaJTF/s640/2012+Autumn+Winter+117.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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I'll put up a Part three to this platoon and show you some of the stuff around the basing of the infantry units, perhaps a bit of painting info too.<br />
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The nice thing about a platoon like this is that there's no assembly and it's a straightforward way into painting your army - some platoon or company boxsets are a lot more complicated that this!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsXPSqUInJiXSqaWHpp2Ug0YZy_AqYrwQ-kBqHwflocImCYLzsyIdWvvslO8TWmD1CHoihLiCspZZLgGpk1xuzyKlOrYJWWMD2GPumHP1-XVSRSkUzScm6sdQBSe2tCPb_37Ydx_hnaJTF/s1600/2012+Autumn+Winter+117.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06138040831167559298noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667571289738703603.post-74464826269317038282013-02-13T16:13:00.001+00:002013-04-19T09:23:27.720+01:00Painting SS-Scout Tank-hunter platoon Schwimmwagen GE819 Part 1 (Flames of War FOW 15mm)As I've been building up my SS army I saw the Painting SS-Scout Tank-hunter platoon Schwimmwagen GE819 and wanted one (even if it doesn't get a lot of battlefield use).<br />
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The four vehicles (Schwimmwagen) are quick to paint, and simple too in comparison to a tank - because there isn't as much fine detail or panelling on them.<br />
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Here they are front end on: <br />
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Here they are at the back:<br />
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Once seeing them I decided to use some two part moulding epoxy, often called "Green Stuff", to customise each one. For example on the rear of the second Schwimmwagen you can see the start of an SS infantryman's helmet above each wheel arch, and a camo net in the middle. I'm still getting to grips with using green stuff, but I think the limits of it are primarily skill based.<br />
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For painting the vehicles I'm using Vallejo Middlestone (882), with camo patches of Chocolate Brown (872) and Reflective Green (890). I've used small pieces of sponge to create the patches of the camo colours.<br />
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I'll finish this article off soon and show you the finished product.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06138040831167559298noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667571289738703603.post-24169680521704706792012-07-10T17:44:00.001+01:002013-04-19T09:23:41.600+01:00Keeping a simple paint set (Flames of War FOW 15mm)I have no airbrush, I'm not sure I'll ever get one. It isn't that they aren't good, quite the opposite, but I'm aiming to do the best I can with normal brushes, reading what others do, and my own ideas/sense of creativity.<br />
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Here's my paints:<br />
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I've bought most of the different Flames paintsets, and then added extra bits to them. I love the look of those fancy paint holders some people use, they make you feel like you're in a shop. However, I simply use a biscuit/cookie tin and a labelling system. Currently that system is as simple as using marking the top of each pot with a code: Q-Quartermaster; US- American; H- German regular army known as Heer; B-British, SS-German SS; S-Soviet.<br />
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In addition I ordered a different Vallejo flesh paint, Medium Fleshtone (860), I think it's better than flat flesh (955). I'll add bits of flat to the medium and I prefer the finish. I also ordered Leather Brown (871) for my boots, again I prefer it. Then there's three of the colours I use for basing miniatures - I'll talk about them another time.<br />
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In the tin are also a couple of pots of pigment and some regular acrylics, which will probably end up on my boards (once I start making them).<br />
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If I was starting this system again I'd probably add the Vallejo number to each paint. Currently if I'm painting SS, which is common, unless I line the paints up for the platoon (a habit I'm beginning to use) then I end up lifting and checking pots until I find the right one.<br />
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Work out what fits for you, but keeping it a little organised means you'll spend less time getting frustrated and more time enjoying the hobby.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06138040831167559298noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667571289738703603.post-62960145276892597162012-07-06T21:34:00.000+01:002012-07-06T21:34:57.793+01:00Here are the next couple of pictures from the painting of my first tanks, Sherman platoon boxset. I thought I'd cut my teeth on them.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisYQM-rG4hlr9RNz-MR5Kq98lZzN-YhA0hOKR8Em-4bUARqa3JkDkUL7uPl7qM1BosBkKTTzJTJQ_OMNwbQLAvznNAw3iXFnXPwl2GJSnPjZMAEfqlMEBqh7r1dHT8FCeChkx03oQdRo-O/s1600/IMG_0077.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisYQM-rG4hlr9RNz-MR5Kq98lZzN-YhA0hOKR8Em-4bUARqa3JkDkUL7uPl7qM1BosBkKTTzJTJQ_OMNwbQLAvznNAw3iXFnXPwl2GJSnPjZMAEfqlMEBqh7r1dHT8FCeChkx03oQdRo-O/s320/IMG_0077.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hulls undercoated</td></tr>
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This next picture makes me laugh. Now when I paint a tank I'd block paint the areas and ensure shadow and contrast, but this is where I started.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2paSg5XFBsy6AO8I9TyQXUHriqTOY-FFvIW4QvWNo07YUh_uvWpJbnpeg_cKAIhEBPBEURCd4ZHaMthBBIlwI8dA595LRKdkalnoT8rro_rnZ7JhMRpKaS08JXTiw8Vb1rjNSN1OGPFG/s1600/IMG_0082.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib2paSg5XFBsy6AO8I9TyQXUHriqTOY-FFvIW4QvWNo07YUh_uvWpJbnpeg_cKAIhEBPBEURCd4ZHaMthBBIlwI8dA595LRKdkalnoT8rro_rnZ7JhMRpKaS08JXTiw8Vb1rjNSN1OGPFG/s400/IMG_0082.PNG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting the green on</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLLJkvu3bk-_DpAeOdg9WRFx3Ub-RjHW_9N28nuG9EVRr_9VKRkdcX9s2P7qnO6n_P7IF7f5zJoM2qU0Jo4_QQVg95M8LkTpHzPxGpY-IMvuA8UfHmLuod9PQCHXd3wgRB2UerFoyCNHIn/s1600/IMG_0221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLLJkvu3bk-_DpAeOdg9WRFx3Ub-RjHW_9N28nuG9EVRr_9VKRkdcX9s2P7qnO6n_P7IF7f5zJoM2qU0Jo4_QQVg95M8LkTpHzPxGpY-IMvuA8UfHmLuod9PQCHXd3wgRB2UerFoyCNHIn/s400/IMG_0221.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Putting the details on</td></tr>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06138040831167559298noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1667571289738703603.post-78691572249892442052012-07-06T20:36:00.001+01:002012-07-06T20:42:03.772+01:00I've recently started painting (and rarely) playing Flames of War. My
first set of goals are to paint late war SS and Soviet armies. I'm no
expert in painting or modelling, but I'm enjoying trying my hand at
Flames of War.<br />
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Having said I'm aiming for SS and Soviet, the first things I painted up
were a British Sherman platoon, as you can see in the picture .<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJjRlUm4_ofQqqOxRfoIm5qGLnei5oo5sKN7KHMZ-6sM8eSICEj8OZVMFTpGUSNFCMdbfFp594eVW7hiPRKErMfV54gQRNWve8j46UIjAaqnJ2fUdLFtPyflatXy8wlfQ_yIepUR-HOgwi/s1600/IMG_0071.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJjRlUm4_ofQqqOxRfoIm5qGLnei5oo5sKN7KHMZ-6sM8eSICEj8OZVMFTpGUSNFCMdbfFp594eVW7hiPRKErMfV54gQRNWve8j46UIjAaqnJ2fUdLFtPyflatXy8wlfQ_yIepUR-HOgwi/s640/IMG_0071.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06138040831167559298noreply@blogger.com0